Throughout this blog, you can click the images to enlarge them...

Sunday, November 14, 2021

So, what’s new Kazakhstan?

[as always, you can click a picture to enlarge]

Back in Kazakhstan after being away for 18 months, and it’s…very similar to when I left. Thankfully, that car sitting in the street on the trip to work is still there, I was worried it might be gone.

However, as noted last post, the construction industry seems to have gone ahead full steam. The big construction site across the street from the office with a poor-looking village is now several 15-story apartments under construction with cranes, as well as a fully completed school.

And in my apartment building, the middle elevator started working. It has been “under temporary repair works” since I’ve lived here. Meaning it’s running for the first time in 2-3 years. I refuse to ride on it.

So back in the flat, first things first – put up a Riders flag, then throw out everything food related. Everything, including canned items and sealed boxes, took on the taste of stale cardboard after sitting in a hot apartment for over a year. So naturally, I have to start with a food blog.

Food Finds

Since I left…way, way more nearby grocery options. I’ve in fact resorted to cooking for myself more regularly because I have two to three places to stop and grab stuff on my 10-minute walk home from work. I see this loyal little guy patiently waiting for his owner on occasion outside the store.

It’s amusing to realize that he only speaks Russian: I said, “Good Dog” and nothing happens, but he looks at me for “хороший собака!”

The mall attached to my flat was quiet for the first week I was here but has since picked up considerably. You need to scan “green” on the vaccine passport/negative test app to get in, but it’s been busy.

Office hours changed during the pandemic – rather than 9:00 am – 6:30 pm with 1.5 hrs. for lunch (since, as previously noted, everyone went home), with remote work, lunch was cut back to an hour. Leaving the office around 6 pm (usually to keep working and take North American AM call at my flat during the evening) makes all the difference in the ability to make supper. A few nights I opted to go exotic:


It might be a little deceiving…but this is equivalent to three-quarters of a fully trimmed beef tenderloin from Costco. It was $15 – entire meal was under CAD$20 and the leftover tenderloin was added to eggs benny with caviar, just for shits. And later, tenderloin taco in a bag.

Although fresh food gets sparse into winter, this time of year is awesome, with farm-fresh markets and produce. No word of a lie: buying grocery store cucumbers right now is like when I used to pick them fresh from Grandma Nast’s garden and douse them with salt – no bitter Superstore garbage.

Under the category of “new finds” I have some items to bring home for the charcuterie board: moose and bear dried meats!

And of course, back to a regular diet of chechil. I’ve mentioned before, but there is no beating the braided, smoked string cheese to go with a beer. Best snack ever and I’ve be researching how to bring some back to Canada without ending up on “Border Security” – but coupled with the bear and moose meat, might be unavoidable.



A couple of critical items I forgot to bring: buffalo sauce and Splenda/stevia for coffee…can’t stand sugar anymore. For the buffalo sauce, I attempted to make it from scratch. While edible and spicy…sadly, whatever the hell I made was NOT buffalo sauce.

For the stevia, I was left to wander the baking isles, sounding out Cyrillic text like a fucking 6-year-old. “St….stev….stevia! Yes, fuckin’ Stevia!” - when I suddenly yelled it out, some old baba walked by shaking her head, probably thinking I was some foreigner touring around local foods, drunk at 4 pm on a Saturday. I confirmed with my live-camera-translation Google translate app (in the picture) - which is absolutely the most amazing tech on earth. Point it at text in any language and it magically goes from anything to English. Embarrassingly, it’s how I’ve worked in a Russian-speaking country for 3 years and still know next to zero Russian – daily emails, store signs, you name it, it works. Kind of sad, but for anyone traveling these days it’s a TOTAL game changer - unless you’re going somewhere permanently…why bother? You can just enjoy the place and/or do your job well, without the challenge of a language barrier and learning a language that will be useless to you personally in the future. Just ask the Air Canada CEO…he gets it :)

Found LEMON coke zero. Great stuff to go with whiskey.

 

I also found a new-to-me Russian booze called “Hunting”, something I’ll be bringing back to the collection at home. A 40% vodka with a wild Russian forest berry flavor that isn’t too sweet…great with tonic.

Another discovery was pre-made pickle soup. North America is way behind the times on this one.

But every meal can’t be gourmet…and it’s now far easier to eat garbage, thanks to the pandemic! There is now “Yandex Eats” in my Yandex app, like Skip the Dishes. Ordering in is far more available than when I left. In this case, I decided on McD’s. Couldn’t resist ordering the McDonald’s Macrons but resisted the McShrimps and stuck with McNuggets. 

In the end, big mac, fries, nuggets, macrons, drinks, cheese, and garlic sauces all for about CAD$8. The app tracks the guy walking with his cooler backpack from the restaurant…and I could watch him approaching - centre, with the yellow pack. Great entertainment since I have little to no life here.

I actually watch many things from the window: it’s like I live in a nursing home where nobody checks on me – like a nursing home in Quebec or Ontario I guess (too soon, sorry, poor taste). The dogs hunting mice on the mall walls are always a highlight.

Back to the Office

Coming back into the office was eerie…since it’s still mostly empty. Kazatomprom has some of the most stringent protocols in place, with most departments still working on ~2 week shifts to minimize the number of people interacting in the building. To keep it safe, you must either be vaccinated or pass a weekly test – where the results are tied to your national ID card, which you must scan in as “green” in order to enter.

I've heard of colleagues remaining unvaccinated and having to incur the costs for regular tests, and I'll admit, prior to coming back I thought "rats, must be mistrust of the Russian/Chinese vaccines they have here, or perhaps mistrust of the science." Now I know, it's far more pragmatic. Like in Canada, you only get one vaccine...can take Sputnik now and a something else later. So why would you get one the WHO and European countries won't recognize, and likely something that won't even allow you to do your JOB, if you have to travel? Makes complete sense: wait for Pfizer or something recognized, so a person can go somewhere besides the UAE...

On to the office: first, mask must be on, and you walk through a tunnel that sprays you with disinfectant. The tinfoil hat crowd would say it’s covering me in nano-spy bots and micro tracking chips – meh, whatever it is, I cover my coffee mug with my hand.

Next, you pass the infrared camera hanging from the ceiling where a guard ensures you don’t have a fever.

Then you enter the elevator – with max 5 people, as per the floor markings, and in a culture shock…nobody is shaking hands. Overall, a safer feeling experience!

The walk through my 19th floor is quiet. At most, 2 other people around and a few days, I’m the only one there…

First days were to catch up: 100 missed calls…The kids' goodie bag from Christmas…

And the 10-month-old gingerbread cookie. Yes, I ate it! I've been isolated in a fucking pandemic for 18 months, live a little. I'm fine, the mystery spray tunnel cured me on the way out.

And a highlight – I was able to order my custom Kazatomprom company-branded personal Visa debit card! The perks of a big national company… won’t be my main debit card, but if nothing else, a cool memento.

A pre-winter Nur-Sultan tour

As usual, weather is the same as Saskatchewan, so it’s been a fairly long, mild fall. There was a skiff of snow when I arrived October 7, but it melted and we had a few +10C weekends, so I decided to do a 15 km walk to see how things had developed around town:

The Nur Astana Mosque and surrounding park.



My Bank, Fortebank HQ (a very cool building – like a building inside a building, with cool night lighting)

Botanical gardens and park – walkways have “lanes” throughout – cycling in one, green rubber for running, one for walking, and brick for everyone else. And there’s me, in a t-shirt and vest while everyone is in full Canada Goose and toques…





The Arch of Triumph…mini version

Some progress has been made on the 75-story Abu Dhabi Plaza, with a big “Qazaqstan” logo down the side. It’s been under construction since 2011 and is finally due for completion this year…the tallest building in the country.

Unfortunately, far, far less progress on the Astana monorail, which is to run from the city center to the airport. An eyesore down the middle of the city that was meant for the 2017 EXPO, but nobody wants to pull the plug…the project that just keeps on absorbing money but showing little to no progress.

And no city walk is complete without Baiterek Tower and the Presidential Palace!



And then within days – Kim sends me pictures of snow at our front door at home…and the walk to work turns sour…I have no idea how "Saskatoon, Saskatchewan" and "Nur-Sultan, Qazaqstan" are not sister cities...

Oh well, weather is turning...time to prepare to head back to Canada for Christmas!



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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